Vacheron Constantin Vacheron Constantin Métiers d'Art Mecaniques Ajourées 43050 Dual Time Retrograde wristwatch Ref.43050/000J

Vacheron Constantin is a relatively conservative brand in watchmaking for watch enthusiasts. However, the 1990s were an interesting period for the brand as they continuously explored novel and intriguing ways of displaying time. One of the most iconic and successful attempts is the Vacheron Constantin Mercator 43050, which we are sharing with you today.

The Mercator Ref. 43050 is a masterpiece from Vacheron Constantin in the 1990s. The watchmaker and enamel craftsman, Jean Genbrugge, proposed a creative idea to the brand, which was immediately adopted: using compass-shaped dual retrograde hands to display time on an enamel map dial, as a tribute to the 400th anniversary of the death of the cartographer Gerardus Mercator.

Ref. 43050 displays time in a non-traditional and unique way, with two compass-shaped retrograde hands. The left one indicates the hours, and the right one indicates the minutes. The most interesting aspect of this watch is that you can hear the flow of time. When the minute hand reaches 60, it emits a satisfying "click" sound as it snaps back to zero, while the hour hand jumps perfectly to the next hour. Of course, the most delightful "click" occurs at 12:59 when both hands retrograde to 1 and return to the center position.

Below the hands is an exquisitely crafted gold dial depicting the historical map originally drawn by Mercator, showcasing the continents of Europe, Africa, Asia, and Australia. The map lines and names are engraved on the dial and filled with shiny black enamel, adding beautiful luster and depth to the flat dial. Notably, at the four o'clock position on the dial, you will also find a subtle inscription that reads "J&L Genbrugge" as a tribute to the visionary couple behind the conception and production of these beautiful Mercator watches.

The Mercator features a classic 36mm round gold case with a stepped bezel and solid stepped lugs, presenting a distinct monochromatic appearance. The combination of gold on gold looks truly stunning on this watch, especially for the 43050 model, where the overall single-tone design highlights the artwork on the dial.

The Vacheron Constantin Mercator 43050 is powered by the VC Cal. 1120M movement, which is essentially a heavily modified version of the JLC Cal. 920 movement to achieve the dual retrograde function. Through the sapphire crystal caseback, you can see that it also features a 21-carat automatic rotor with hand-engraved inscription: "1594 - Gerardus Mercator - 1994".

The production period of the Mercator was approximately 10 years, during which only 638 pieces were produced. The quantity of Mercator watches in circulation on the market is extremely rare, and whenever they appear at auctions, they inevitably attract fierce competition. The 43050 we are sharing with you is in good condition, comes with its original box and certificate, making it a desirable timepiece